Travel Diaries 6 - Nepal

***Disappointment of the decade***

Country: Nepal 

Destination: Mount Everest basecamp & Kala Patthar

2017 will remain very special for us for many reasons and we wanted to commemorate year in many ways. One being traveling to all 6 continents (except Antarctica), visiting the oldest world-wonder (Egyptian Pyramids), largest rainforest (Amazon), longest river (Nile), oldest inhabited cities (Athens - because we can't go to Damascus, Syria) and.......the highest peak in the world (Mt.Everest). While all others have been done (or will be done), we were left with heartbreaking disappointment at the mighty Everest area.

In our 2.5 month hectic holiday to India, we sneaked out on a 2 day trip to Nepal in our pursuit to tick off Mount Everest from our bucket list. Since we had a 5 year old with us, the idea was to fly from Kathmandu to the Everest base-camp and then to Kala Patthar which is supposed to be the best viewpoint of the summit. 

The day we reached Kathmandu, we were amazed at how different Nepal is from India despite such strong social, religious, cultural ties and not to mention physiognomy. Nepalese people also seemed to be fiercely proud of their heritage, culture and don't appreciate being called similar to Indians. The day went well with visit to one of the oldest temples, the unique and magnificent Pasupathinath Temple (by the way, till recently Nepal was the only official Hindu country in the world). It was an eerie experience watching dead bodies being mass cremated on the banks of the river along the temple.

The next day was big. The day we were supposed to see the mighty Mount Everest with a naked eye. Here's the conversation (verbatim)

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*At Kathmandu airport helipad, 6:30 am*

Operator: sir, the weather is bad, let's wait for 30 minutes

Me: OK sure.

*After 30 mins*

Operator: sir, it's cloudy and not conducive for our tour. 

Me: But wasn't weather supposed to be good and sunny today as per forecasts.

Operator: yes sir but things change every hour and will be highly unpredictable at the Everest area. Sometimes we would also get stranded for 5 days straight. Please return to hotel and I'll update you.

Me: OK but please keep us posted and we would want to do this even at the slightest chance.

*We returned to hotel*

*Operator on phone after 1.5 hours*

Operator: Sir, Everest is not visible today. Shall I take you to Swayambhu temple and local shopping market ?

We: We came for an experience of a lifetime so let's wait for clouds to clear up and fly to atleast one of the 3 places where we can view the Everest

*Operator on phone after an hour*

 Operator: Sir, please come to helipad again. Seemingly weather had cleared up. Air traffic controller confirmed that and pilot is all set.

*We rushed like there's no tomorrow and boarded the helicopter*

*Up in the air after flying an hour into Himalayas*

Pilot: the weather is getting worse and there's no way we can go closer to the Everest view points. Let's return.  

*steers the helicopter around*

**My heart broke into 1000 pieces**

*After landing at Kathmandu helipad*

Kid:*waking up from sleep*: "Pappa, did I miss Everest ?"

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The only consolation in the escapade is that the pilot took pity on us and landed us at the mysterious Haleshi Mahadev temple (google it) somewhere hidden in a bat-cave near thick woods on the banks of Doodhkoshi river in the Everest area. That would be memorable but the scar of missing on Everest remains. Some other day, some other time, may be a trek to basecamp and Kaala Patthar and I read about altitude-sickness, zero amenities, parasite infested water, indigestion, yak-dung nausea etc. It's not easy but still....

Mount Everest - I accept your challenge !